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I thought I'd write a post about my experiences with international travel as a Deaf person. I find it surprising, how very different it feels to be Deaf in different places. Culture changes everything.
My favourite Deaf travel story
Let me start with my favourite Deaf travel story... I was travelling with my partner Paula, and as we checked in they figured out I was Deaf. There was some kerfuffle but we were released into the wilds of the airport. As we waited at the gate, Paula nudged me and told me. "There's an announcement over the loudspeaker. Can all Deaf people and parents with children please come to the gate now to board first." As you'd expect, there was a flurry of parents and kids heading to the gate. But strangely enough... no Deaf people.
This announcement highlights something I encounter over and over again. Well-meaning people who attempt to cater for my needs, but who haven't actually thought about what it means to be Deaf.
A first encounter with Deafness
Let me tell you about Joe, who I met in a shop in France. He said something to me, which I didn't understand, and my friend Jenine explained to him that I'm Deaf. No worries. Conversation with Jenine goes on. He asked her how we were enjoying the music festival.
She explained that actually we weren't attending the music festival. "But why not? It's free. You should go to the concert tonight."
"Well Asphyxia can't hear it."
This hit Joe hard. Hand to his heart, sorrow on his face. He turned to me. "You can't hear MUSIC?! But what is life without music?" (Or something.. the facial expression said it all - I didn't catch his words.)
I shrugged. "It's ok. I'm happy as it is."
Then Joe has a deep idea. "You know, you could get a bionic ear. Have you thought about that? Then you could hear music."
Let's just pause here for a moment. Does Joe really believe I've gone my entire life, without it occurring to me until now, that the bionic ear (or a cochlear implant) is a possibility? Does he really think that now he's suggested it, I'm going to go home and look into the idea? And, for that matter, does he think he's the first to come up with such wisdom?
In fact, this is something I find intensely irritating, the need to discuss, regularly, with perfect strangers, the intimate details of what operations I might choose to have. I have, in the past, explained to people like Joe, that actually, a cochlear implant or bionic ear would do nothing for me since my ears work fine. It's the nerves connecting my ears to my brain that don't work. Which means I'd need a nerve implant in my brain. Forget it - I ain't letting any surgeon poke around in there. But I'm sick and tired of explaining my medical situation to strangers.
My friend Anna came up with a marvellous response:
"Have you thought about having botox? I feel it would really help your situation."
But sadly I can't bring myself to use it. Joe meant well. He just hadn't thought about Deafness before and I had the great joy of participating while he had his first, elementary encounter with the concept.
Yeah, so that's Joe, in France. There's Joes all over Australia too - I meet them all the time. It may well have been a Joe who made that announcement over the loudspeaker at the boarding gate.
Being Deaf in Norway and Denmark
Contrast that with my experience in Norway and Denmark. For the first time ever in my life, I was actually treated like a normal person. I found out recently that in Norway they teach the finer points of knitting and yarn management in schools. I reckon they must also do a unit or two on Deafness, because they seem to know that:
a) being Deaf does not mean you are stupid
b) rather than expecting Deaf people to lipread you so you can carry on as normal, you should attempt to communicate in a more visual way, such as through mime or writing
c) you don't need to apologise to anyone for their Deafness, nor discuss their medical needs, nor even make a big deal about it at all.
The response, when I told a person in Denmark or Norway that I was Deaf was "Oh, right." They'd then grab a piece of paper and write to me, or else point and mime to clarify whatever we were attempting to communicate about. And nothing was a big deal. I didn't need to witness anyone's heartbreak that I can't hear the birds twittering or the free piano concert.
The finer points of Deafness seem to be common knowledge
In fact, even the finer points of Deafness seemed to be common knowledge. When I arrived to stay with my AirBnB host, she was already aware that Deaf people don't tend to know how much noise they make. (Paula is always complaining about how loud I am in the kitchen, or how I inadvertently slam doors - because I can't hear myself to self-monitor.) Daisy's tour of her apartment, as she showed me how to use the shower and how to jiggle the key just so, included a recommendation that I not rustle the cutlery in the drawer as it's particularly loud, and there's a certain door that is very noisy so I should make the effort to close it quietly.
Wow. I've never met a person in Australia with that much awareness, other than those within the Deaf community. What was even more astounding is that Daisy did not proceed to tell me how she acquired her knowledge of Deafness. She didn't say that she'd once had a Deaf guest who was incredibly noisy, nor that her mum's second cousin can't hear. The Deaf thing was just something to be dealt with along with everything else. Unremarkable. What a bloody relief.
Don't expect me to lipread
In fact, I didn't realise how much of a relief it was, until I landed in France, which is much more like Australia when it comes to responding to Deaf people. Whenever I told someone I was Deaf they'd point to their lips and expect me to lipread. When I made it clear I hadn't a hope in hell of lipreading French, that was the end of the conversation. Well, from my end it was. From their end it was far from over. They proceeded to speak to me in French, at full speed, often turning away without making eye contact, and somehow presumed I'd understand.
The eye contact was appalling. I often communicate with a mix of mime and body language, but getting the French people to look at me so I could do so was quite a headache.
Talk to ME! (Not my companion)
At one point, Jenine was talking to our AirBnB host in France, and I had a question. Rather than put Jenine in the position where she had to ask the question on my behalf, I wrote it down on a piece of paper. I waited for what I hoped was an appropriate pause in the conversation, hoping I could catch the host before she turned away. Eventually I handed her the piece of paper with my question.
Her response? Even though I had a pen handy so she could write back, she didn't even look at me. She simply made her reply to Jenine. They talked for a bit and then the host left.
What the fuck? Jenine did her best to explain. I find this so rude. What if I had had a follow up question? Why couldn't the woman have communicated directly with me? It was around this time I gave up trying to communicate effectively in France, and started to assume I would just be ignored, which was mostly the case.
Being Deaf can be 'special'
When I travelled to Morocco, it was different again. At that time I was with my partner, Paula. I've been told that there's a Muslim belief that if you are born with a disability, then you are closer to God. Whether this is true or not, I don't know. But a lot of people liked to touch me, for good luck. Rather than being ignored, I was special. Red carpet and VIP treatment. Everyone assumed that Paula was my carer, travelling with me simply to serve me. And apparently it was natural that, as my 'carer' she would have to sleep in the same bed as me. Presumably to minister to my needs 24/7. Wow. If I haggled at the markets, I got the best price. Even if I didn't, I'd be given something for free.
The freebies are nice, I'll grant that. So are the low prices (I get both of these to an extent in Australia too). But what I liked best of all, by a long, long shot, was that little taste of just being an ordinary person in Norway and Denmark. That was good, SO GOOD, I could almost cry thinking about it.
How to improve the situation
And that leads me to think, how good it would be, here in Australia, if we were to have a unit on Deafnes, and on other disabilities too, as part of our school curriculum. Or even better, if we had teachers out there who modelled all sorts of diversity, so that students could see and experience for themselves that actually, we ARE just ordinary people, and in many cases, our Deafness or disability is not even the most remarkable thing about us.
I do teach a lecture on this at Melbourne Uni, and I love it because I know that those students, who will shortly be teachers, will go out into the world ready to respond more appropriately if they meet a Deaf person, or a Deaf student walks into their classroom. But we need more than this. We need this stuff to be taught to everyone. It doesn't take long. One lesson is enough to get the Joes of the world thinking so that they are ready when a Deaf person enters their shop.